I guess you all know by the change of address in the fall issue that the Heidi Ho troops have moved again. This time we traveled in style in our «cat house» on wheels, an 18 foot travel trailer. I must say, it was really the ideal way to move a cattery. No problems with rotels enroute and no boarding fees at this end while I house hunted. I had no trouble finding KOA campgrounds at convenient intervals and a friend at this end provided a backyard to park in until I found a house.
It does get rather chummy in a small trailer with 13 big cats and 95 pounds of German Shepherd. However, you eventually learn to accept the fact that someone is always under your feet or over your head or in your soup. The double sink made two marvelous beds and was full of fat cats for the entire trip except when I chased them out to wash dishes. It does take a bit of effort to shove nine or ten cats out of the bunk so you can climb in, but it was nice and cozy on cool nights.
The only real crisis occurred the first night out when Abner (my Siamese elder statesman) who had been riding in the car with Heidi and me, decided he didn’t want to get in the trailer with all those cats. He darted out into the howling Kansas wind and pitch black night and I spent the next ten minutes chasing him around and under trailers and cars, waving a flash light, falling over the dog, and muttering dire threats of hanging his .hide on the trailer door. Finally, he hopped up on the roof of my car and sat there swearing at me until I got him down and safely tucked inside. The next day, he decided that he liked it and refused to ride in the car!
These seem to be a lot of questions to answer this time, so best I get to them. Several folks have mentioned having difficulty training their cats to the leash. First of all, use a cat harness, not a collar I prefer the type that has a collar for the neck, and a belly band connected by a single strap down the back. This puts the «pull» behind the elbows, not on the throat. They are very secure, but not likely to choke the cat. Abner has actually fallen out of trees (he’s not very athletic) while wearing one and hung by his elbows on the end of his lead with nothing damaged but his dignity. Second, start your training at dusk or after dark. The cat will feel more secure than in broad daylight, and move with you more freely. Third, don’t expect too much; some cats lead well, others don’t. At least, if your cat is accustomed to the leash, you can take him outside for a nibble of grass without danger of losing him.
This reminds me of something else. I firmly believe that cats who live out side, all or part of the time, don’t have hair ball problems because they eat grass. The only time I have hairballs showing up is when my troops are confined and can’t have their daily nibble of greenery. If you can’t get them to the grass, bring the grass to them. I’d suggest getting well established sod from some place, or if you plant seed, cover the container with screen to prevent it from being pulled out by the roots. You may find you need to have two containers to alternate use. A word of warning; the cat eats the grass and then urps, bringing up grass and hair. Sounds messy, but its not as bad as a huge hairball or worse yet an intentinal obstruction.
Some of you asked how to bathe a cat. I don’t very often, not even for shows. It makes them look too fuzzy. However, there are times when it is necessary, such as when someone gets a dose of fleas, or rolls in something they shouldn’t.
My method is to put two large plastic tubs in the bath tub and fill them with warm (use the elbow test) water, Also have an extra bucket of warm water. If you have plenty available, you don’t have to run water while the cat is in the tub and he is less likely to become frightened. Other equipment needed is a big dipper, a wash cloth, 2 or 3 big towles and shampoo. If I am after fleas, I use any good flea killing shampoo. Just be sure the cat doesn’t get any in his mouth, and rinse well!
Now capture your victim. If you are wise, you will have trimmed his front toe nails a couple of days previously to give him time to wear off the sharp edges. Stand him in one tub, rear feet in the water, front feet on the edge of the tub. It helps to have an assistant, but it can be done alone. Hold him with your left hand around his chest and use the right to wet him down with the wash cloth, Wet him well from behind the ears to the tip of his tail, but don’t get water on his face. Then comes the shampoo. Start at the neck and work back. Then rinse, first with the water in that tub, then the second tub, and finally the water in the bucket. Use the dipper to pour the water over him and don’t neglect his tummy and throat. Then dry him. Get the worst off with one towel and then the rest with the dry one. If you have a cage and a warm air dryer of some sort, you can finish the job with that. If not, be prepared to spend an hour or so with puss in your lap wrapped in a dry towel. He’ll be chilled, even if your room is overly warm. Keep him wrapped up and warm until he feels nearly dry and has stopped shivering.
I have said nothing about his reaction to all of this. It probably won’t be as violent as you think. Some of mine simply accept it; some will try to get away (so be sure the bathroom door is closed), some won’t say a word, and others like my big Kim Chee will inform the whole neighborhood that you are drowning them! I never had a cat catch the sniffles, nor have I been bitten or scratched, even when the cat was a total stranger. If you hold them firmly but gently and work as quickly as possible, you and puss won’t get anything but wet.
I would like to recomment the article «The Wise Cat Buyer» by Meredith D.
Wilson in the July issue of Cats Magazine for those of you who are planning to add a furry friend to your household. This article plus MCBFA Buyer’s Code should keep everyone out of trouble.
Last question for this issue is one I’ve had from many people. «How do you feed a finicky cat?» The best advice I can give is «Ask him what he wants!»
Connie