POT PURRY
I’ve had a number of requests for advice on grooming Maine Coon Cats. With the «Spring Shed» just a few weeks away, this is a good time to review the procedure, or at least the one I use.
Let’s first establish a few facts. The Maine Coon is not a Persian. He has a coat that is more or less self-grooming. He does shed and during periods of heavy shedding, he may matt. However, on most Maine Coons the matts are small, comparatively loose, and will tend to work themselves out away from the skin and eventually drop off – on the furniture, in the soup, etc. This being the case, why bother to groom at all?
Well, if you don’t, you will have fur not only in your soup but all over everything. Furthermore, puss will look like a moth-eaten muff and will decorate your happy home with urped hair balls as well as hair. Second fact: the finished product should be a cat with an essentially clean cut top line flowing down into «fringed»underpants. He should not look fluffy! Even his bib appears «tailered» when compared to a Persian.
To achieve this, you need just two combs – no «hair tonic», no powder, no brush. A brush is really rather useless; it just skims the surface and fools you into thinking your cat is well groomed, while underneath is a mass of dead hair. One comb should be a «flea comb» with 21 teeth per inch. This is for the short fur on head, shoulders, and legs. The other should be a standard wire comb with 12 teeth per inch. I like the type with a wooden handle best. If your cat has a very heavy coat you might want to add a second one of these with 9 teeth per inch.
Some cats like grooming; some like it until you reach the britches; and some raise Holy Ned if you even reach for a comb. Since I have some of each, I give myself an edge on the protesters by using a formica top grooming table – no traction for fast take-offs. It is also a comfortable height and by having a specific place for grooming, it conditions puss (for better or worse) to know what to expect when he is put there.
Begin combing at the head with the flea comb. This feels good (even to the rebels) and puts puss in a good mood for the rest. If there is a lot of pull with this comb, switch to your 12 tooth comb for the first combing and then back to the flea comb. Whenever one comb seems to be pulling excessively, switch to a comb with fewer teeth.
Work from front to back and from top to bottom. If an area has a matt, work from the outside into the skin in short strokes, catching just a bit more of the matt each time. Almost any matt can be worked out this way without causing puss too much discomfort. If there are no matts, comb out from the skin. Pay particular attention to the «armpits» and flanks. My kids have learned to allow me to stretch their «arms» up so I can comb from under the arm down the side to the flank. Underparts can be combed with the cat standing or held in a sitting position with his back braced against you.
To comb the britches, I tuck puss under my left arm, Mammy Yokum style, and hold him firmly against me with my upper arm. This leaves my left hand free to stretch and hold the back legs. Matts often form just above the hock and if puss flexes his legs, you can’t reach them. This is also a good time to do the tail, working from base to tip. Be particularly thorough under the base of the tail. With just a minimum of once a week grooming, your Maine Coon will be in show condition all the time and you can eat your soup without saying «Ptoooey»!
Connie